Feb 7, 2014 ELV Systems
The best part of an AirVac central vacuum system is what it doesn’t have: noise, inconvenience, and dust. Much less dust left behind – in your rugs, on your furniture, in the air and in your family’s lungs. Traditional vacuum cleaners allow too much dust to recirculate – on your rugs, on your furniture, throughout your home. The result: indoor air pollutant levels two to five times – and in some cases 100 times higher – than outdoor levels.
AirVac Central Vacuum Systems previously manufactured by M&S Systems are now manufactured by Linear LLC. M&S Systems has been an industry leader in the design and manufacture of built-in, electronic home amenities for over 50 years.
AirVac Red Series: The AirVac Red Series Bagless Central Vacuum System is a bagless central vacuum power unit. The Bagless Central Vacuum System is modular in design with nested components that reduce storage space and shipping costs. The nested design also simplifies handling, installation and service.
AirVac Blue Series: The AirVac Platinum Series Disposable Bag Central Vacuum System is a disposable bag central vacuum power unit. It is modular in design with nested components that reduce storage space and shipping costs. The nested design also simplifies handling, installation and service.
AirVac Accessories: Home Controls also carries a vast collection of tools, hose and replacement parts.
Post written by: Home Controls
Jan 28, 2014 Home Improvement
Tuscany lighting has soft qualities and it grants a gorgeous appearance to your home at dawn or dusk. You can use it in the morning muted. You can have Tuscany candle holders at night to enhance the joyous moments in the outdoor dinner parties. Tuscany decoration with light can help to set the romantic mood and you can plan for an enthusiastic garden party. It offers an inviting ambience and warm feeling to the guests.
You can add some other themes to enhance the Tuscany home decor. You can use the details of grapes, olives, scrolled ironwork, earthy tones like olive green and terracotta and Italian garden scenes. You can add textures like maple, tapestry or ceramic tile, which can increase the Tuscany feel.
You can put a Tuscany Motif to your rooms by including wrought iron lighting. The wrought iron chandelier hanging in the dining room or bedroom can provide a beautiful backdrop for all your parties and get together.
You can add Tuscany Outdoor lighting to your garden. Tuscany inspired candelabra is the most fascinating way to enhance the feel. You can include candles and can plan a fabulous outdoor meal. Black wrought iron can offer that elegant appearance.
While planning Tuscan home decor, you need to pay attention to every single detail. You can get inspirations from ornate tapestries or designs in the Tuscan lighting. You can even pick up designs from natural details like clusters of grapes or branches of olive tree. The iron scroll work chandeliers can be accented with fascinating details like tear drop crystals. The most interesting feature of Tuscan-inspired lighting is its versatility. You can decorate it any way that you wish. You can select formal or informal appearance. Everything suits your Tuscan home decor.
You can add more colors to enhance the Tuscan decoration. You can go for wall sconces. Wall sconces having floral details painted on them offer a royal look to your living room. A rustic style table lamp or hurricane lamp can increase the charm of the room. If you want to give more details, you can select large pendant lamps. You can hang them off a wrought iron chandelier base. Beige or off-white color can augment the entire appearance of the room.
It is advisable to select Tuscan table lamps with plain paper shades. Choosing some inspiring earthy colors like olive green, apricot or gold can add an artistic look to the room. Planning Tuscan home decor is not appealing but also very simple. A little effort can help you to bring life to your home.
Read more articles about wrought iron lighting and Italy Tuscan decorations kitchen available here.
Jan 14, 2014 HVAC
TROUBLESHOOTING HEAT PUMP SYSTEMS…INDOOR / OUTDOOR TEMPS VS SUPERHEAT W/ FIXED ORIFICE SYSTEMS
If you look at a superheat charging chart for a fixed orifice system, you quickly see the required superheat varies with outdoor and indoor conditions. As the outdoor temperatures vary, so does the required superheat…pretty much the same relationship for indoor temperatures. Why? The net force pushing liquid through the metering device is the difference in the head and suction pressures, more or less. And I would guess the designers figure in some maximum outdoor temperature in conjunction with some minimum indoor temp and come up with a minimum superheat value for “worst case” scenarios.
The point being, if the outdoor temperature is 75F you don’t won’t want a “beer can cold” suction line…because by the time the afternoon temperature hits mid-90’s, the increased head pressure will have increased the “net force” pushing the liquid through the orifice, and the system will be overcharged, resulting in a lower than desired superheat.
Likewise, if the indoor temps are “high”, superheats will be high. Most charging charts use indoor wetbulb as the control variable, since wetbulb temps include the humidity factor. As indoor wetbulb goes down, the superheat will decrease, everything else being equal. The following clip demonstrates variations in superheat with outdoor conditions.
Here is the original: Wayne Shirley HVAC Tips
Jan 14, 2014 HVAC
TROUBLESHOOTING HEAT PUMP SYSTEMS…R-22 VS R-410A
Unless you’ve been living under a rock for the past several years, you know R-22 is on the way out and R-410A appears to be the manufacturer’s weapon of choice for heat pump and comfort cooling equipment. If you’ve already encountered a 410A system and had a less than pleasant experience, possibly attempting to correct or understand what appeared to be abnormally high system pressures, your confusion may be with a misunderstanding of mechanical refrigeration, rather than the refrigerant.
Mechanical refrigeration is all about heat transfer and temperatures, especially boiling and condensing point temperatures. The whole point of a refrigeration system is that of creating a heat sink or low heat energy level, causing heat to transfer from a higher energy level. For comfort cooling applications, the indoor coil operates at a temperature lower than that of the indoor air temperature, and I’ll say in the 40ish degree range. When the system is in operation, the indoor air is pulled through the coil, where some of it’s heat is transferred to the coil. That heat is then carried to the outdoor coil, where it is transferred to the outdoor air. When heat pumps are operating in the heat cycle, the outdoor coil has a temperature less than the outdoor air temperature. Then the heat in the outdoor air transfers to the refrigerant in the outdoor coil, is carried to the indoor coil, where it is transferred to the indoor air. So, the dynamics of a mechanical refrigeration system simply control the refrigerant temperatures within the indoor and outdoor coils, maintaining a continuous process of heat transfer, in whatever direction is needed.
I don’t claim or even pretend to know, the engineering details necessary for the design of refrigeration systems. But I have a reasonably good idea of how they’re supposed to operate, relative to system pressures, subcooling and superheat, and particularly with comfort cooling and heat pump applications. And so long as I know what refrigerant the system uses, and have a way to convert pressures to saturated temperatures, I’m comfortable with the system. We’re all probably guilty of becoming familiar with system pressure measurements, and forgetting what we’re actually measuring, which is the saturated refrigerant temperatures in the evaporator and condenser coils. Once we see what those numbers are, we then measure the suction line and liquid line temperatures so superheat and subcooling values can be calculated. With the system pressures / saturated temperatures, superheat and subcooling values, we can make an intelligent decision about the operation of the system.
An R-22 system operating in the cool cycle on a hot summer day will usually run a suction, or low side pressure, of 75 psi or so. And the superheat could range from 5 to 15 degrees depending on the type metering device, equipment brand and outdoor temperature. An R-410A system would be running around 120 psi low side, but would have a similar superheat range, again depending on the metering device, brand and outdoor temperature. The difference in pressures is due simply to the difference in saturated temperature / pressure characteristics of the two refrigerants. So long as your gauges have a “temperature conversion scale” for the type refrigerant you’re working with, and you know what the evaporator temperature is supposed to be, you can analyze the system for proper charge and operation, whether or not the pressures are “familiar”.
Author: Wayne Shirley HVAC Tips